Category: Whirlpool Washer

Quick answer: F3 E1 on a Whirlpool washer means the washer can’t detect the water level. Whirlpool says it may come from the control unit or its wiring. Start with a 5-minute power reset. If the code comes back, the pressure sensor, the small air hose connected to it or the wiring need to be checked.

What does the F3 E1 error code mean?

Your washer measures how much water is in the tub with a pressure sensor (also called a water level sensor or pressure switch). A thin air hose runs from the bottom of the tub to the sensor: as the water rises, air pressure in the hose rises too. If the control board gets no reading, or a reading that makes no sense, it shows F3 E1.

Possible causes:

• A temporary glitch in the control (fixed by a reset)
• A kinked, clogged or disconnected pressure sensor hose
• Loose or damaged wiring between the sensor and the control board
• A failed pressure sensor
• Rarely: a failed control board

How to fix the Whirlpool F3 E1 error, step by step

1. Reset the washer

1. Unplug the washer, or switch off the breaker.
2. Wait 5 minutes.
3. Plug it back in and start a Rinse & Spin.

On newer models, the washer may drain for about 8 minutes after an F3 E1 reset. That’s normal.

2. Check the pressure sensor hose

Unplug the washer. Depending on the model, the pressure sensor is under the top panel or behind the control panel. Follow its thin hose down to the tub and check that it’s firmly connected at both ends, not kinked or pinched, and not clogged with residue. A clogged hose can sometimes be cleared by gently blowing through it after disconnecting it from the sensor.

3. Check the wiring

Make sure the connector on the pressure sensor is fully seated and that the wires to the control board aren’t burnt, pinched or broken.

4. Replace the pressure sensor

If the hose and wiring are fine and the code keeps coming back, the sensor itself has likely failed. It’s usually an inexpensive part held by one or two screws. Order it with your washer’s model number.

5. Schedule service

If a new sensor doesn’t fix it, the control board may be the problem. Whirlpool recommends scheduling service if the code returns after a reset.

Whirlpool F3 E1 error: frequently asked questions

Is F3 E1 serious?

Not always. A power reset clears it in some cases. If it keeps returning, it’s usually a hose, wire or sensor, which are cheaper repairs than a control board.

Why is my washer draining after an F3 E1 reset?

Newer Whirlpool washers run a drain routine of about 8 minutes after this code. Let it finish.

Other Whirlpool washer error codes

See the full list of Whirlpool washer error codes, or jump to another common one:

• F9 E1: the washer is taking too long to drain.
• F5 E3: the door isn’t locking.

Sources: Whirlpool Product Help (error code articles for front-load and top-load washers) and iFixit’s Whirlpool washer error code guide. Always unplug the washer before opening any panel.

Quick answer: F9 E1 on a Whirlpool washer means a long drain: the washer took too long to pump the water out (usually more than 8 minutes). The most common causes are a drain hose pushed too deep into the standpipe, a kinked or clogged hose, a clogged drain pump filter, or too many suds from the wrong detergent.

What does the F9 E1 error code mean?

Whirlpool describes F9 E1 as the washer being unable to drain correctly in the expected time. It shows up on front-load and top-load washers, and on many Maytag models too. The washer stops the cycle so it doesn’t spin a drum full of water.

How to fix the Whirlpool F9 E1 error, step by step

1. Check how deep the drain hose goes

This is the cause many people miss. Whirlpool says the drain hose should go no more than 4.5 inches (113 mm) into the standpipe or laundry tub. If it goes deeper, water can siphon back and forth and the washer never finishes draining. Use the U-shaped hose guide that came with the washer to hold the hose at the right length.

2. Leave an air gap, don’t seal the hose

Don’t tape or seal the drain hose into the drainpipe. It should fit loosely, with room for air. Without that gap, suction can pull water out while the washer fills, or stop it from draining properly.

3. Check the hose height and kinks

• The standpipe should be between 39 and 96 inches high (99 to 244 cm), measured from the bottom of the washer.
• Straighten the hose along its whole length and make sure the washer isn’t pushed against it.
• In cold rooms, check that the hose isn’t frozen.

4. Clean the drain pump filter

Some Whirlpool front loaders have a drain pump filter behind a small door or the bottom drawer at the front. Put towels and a shallow pan down, drain the water through the small drain tube, then unscrew the filter and clean out lint, coins and hair. Your owner’s manual shows the exact location for your model. Many top loaders don’t have a user-accessible filter.

5. Clean the drain holes in the door seal (front load)

Front loaders have small drain holes at the bottom of the rubber door seal. If they’re clogged with lint or residue, water drains slowly. Wipe the seal and clear the holes.

6. Use HE detergent

Too many suds slow the drain. Use only HE (high-efficiency) detergent, in the recommended amount.

7. When it’s the drain pump

If the hose, filter and drain are all fine and the code keeps coming back, listen while the washer drains. A hum with no water moving, or no sound at all, points to a jammed or failed drain pump. Order a replacement with your model number, or schedule service.

How to reset a Whirlpool washer after an F9 E1 error

1. Unplug the washer, or switch off its circuit breaker.
2. Wait 5 minutes. Whirlpool says the control needs to be without power for that long to reset.
3. Plug it back in, select the cycle again and press Start.

On many front-load models you can also clear a code by pressing Pause/Cancel twice and then Power once. If the same code comes back, Whirlpool recommends scheduling service.

Whirlpool F9 E1 error: frequently asked questions

Why does my washer show F9 E1 but the water drained?

It may have drained, just too slowly. The most common reason is a drain hose pushed too far into the standpipe, which lets water siphon back.

Does Maytag F9 E1 mean the same thing?

Yes. Maytag washers are made by Whirlpool and F9 E1 is also a long-drain error on them.

Other Whirlpool washer error codes

See the full list of Whirlpool washer error codes, or jump to another common one:

• F5 E3: the door isn’t locking.
• F3 E1: the washer can’t read the water level.

Sources: Whirlpool Product Help (error code articles for front-load and top-load washers) and iFixit’s Whirlpool washer error code guide. Always unplug the washer before opening any panel.

Quick answer: F5 E3 on a Whirlpool washer means the door isn’t locking properly. Close the door firmly, check that nothing (a sleeve, a towel or packing material) is caught in the latch or seal, and reset the washer by unplugging it for 5 minutes. If the code keeps coming back with the door properly closed, the door lock assembly has likely failed.

What does the F5 E3 error code mean?

Whirlpool front-load washers lock the door before they fill and spin. If the control can’t confirm the door is locked, it stops and shows F5 E3. F5 E2 is a closely related door-lock code on many models, and older front loaders show F22 for the same kind of problem.

How to fix the Whirlpool F5 E3 error, step by step

1. Close the door completely

Push the door until you hear the latch click. Don’t lean on it or slam it.

2. Remove anything blocking the latch

Look for clothing caught between the door and the rubber seal, and for detergent buildup on the latch hook or in the lock opening. On a new washer, make sure no packing material or tape is left around the door.

3. Don’t overload the drum

A packed drum pushes the door outward and can keep the lock from engaging. Take a few items out and try again.

4. Reset the washer

Unplug it for 5 minutes, or press Pause/Cancel twice and then Power once on models that support it.

5. Check the door strike and hinge

If the hook on the door is bent, loose or broken, or the door sags on its hinge, it won’t line up with the lock. That needs a new strike or hinge.

6. Replace the door lock assembly

If the door closes properly and the code returns, the door lock (behind the front panel, at the edge of the door opening) has probably failed. It’s a moderate repair: you remove the door seal’s outer clamp and the front panel to reach it. Order the part with your model number, or schedule service.

How to reset a Whirlpool washer after an F5 E3 error

1. Unplug the washer, or switch off its circuit breaker.
2. Wait 5 minutes. Whirlpool says the control needs to be without power for that long to reset.
3. Plug it back in, select the cycle again and press Start.

On many front-load models you can also clear a code by pressing Pause/Cancel twice and then Power once. If the same code comes back, Whirlpool recommends scheduling service.

What if the door won’t open?

The door stays locked while there’s water in the drum or it’s still spinning. Whirlpool notes that after canceling a cycle, the washer can take 20 to 30 minutes to finish draining. Wait, then unplug it for a few minutes and try again. Don’t force the door.

Whirlpool F5 E3 error: frequently asked questions

What is the difference between F5 E2 and F5 E3?

Both are door-lock codes on Whirlpool front loaders, and the first checks are the same: close the door fully and clear anything blocking the latch.

Can I use the washer with an F5 E3 error?

No. The washer won’t fill or spin until it can lock the door.

Other Whirlpool washer error codes

See the full list of Whirlpool washer error codes, or jump to another common one:

• F9 E1: the washer is taking too long to drain.
• F3 E1: the washer can’t read the water level.

Sources: Whirlpool Product Help (error code articles for front-load and top-load washers) and iFixit’s Whirlpool washer error code guide. Always unplug the washer before opening any panel.