Washer Codes

Category: Samsung Washer

  • Samsung Washer dC (dE) Error Code: Door Not Closed or Locked

    Quick answer: dC (also dE, dE1, dE2, LO or FL on some models) means your Samsung washer can’t confirm that the door or lid is closed and locked, so it won’t start or it stops the cycle. Most of the time the door simply isn’t shut all the way, or a piece of clothing is caught in the seal. If the door is closed properly and the code keeps coming back, the door lock assembly is the usual suspect.

    What does the dC error code mean on a Samsung washer?

    Samsung lists dC, dE, dE1, dE2, dS, d5, LO, FL and 1 dC as door errors: the door isn’t detected as closed and locked. In practice:

    • dC usually appears when the door or lid was opened, or the latch didn’t stay engaged, during a cycle.
    • dE and LO usually appear when the washer tries to lock the door at the start and can’t.
    • dC3 or ddC is a different code: the small Add Door (AddWash) isn’t closed.

    How to fix the Samsung washer dC error, step by step

    1. Close the door firmly

    Push the door closed until you hear the latch click. On front loaders, press near the top of the door. On top loaders, make sure the lid is fully down. Don’t open the door while a cycle is running.

    2. Look for clothes caught in the door

    A sleeve or a sock stuck between the door and the rubber seal (gasket) keeps the latch from closing. Open the door, push all the laundry fully inside the drum and close it again.

    3. Don’t overload the drum

    An overpacked drum pushes against the door from the inside and can keep it from locking. Take a few items out and try again.

    4. Clean the door seal and the latch

    Detergent residue, lint or dirt on the gasket and the latch area can stop the door from sealing. Wipe the gasket and the latch hook with a damp cloth, then dry them. Samsung recommends wiping the gasket dry after each wash on front loaders.

    5. Check the door latch (strike)

    Look at the hook on the door and the opening it fits into. If the hook is bent, loose or broken, or the door sags because of a worn hinge, the latch can’t engage. Pulling the door open hard during a cycle is a common way to damage it.

    6. Replace the door lock assembly

    If the door closes properly and you hear the lock buzz or click but the code still appears, or you hear nothing at all, the door lock assembly has likely failed. On front loaders it sits behind the door seal; on top loaders, under the top panel near the lid. It’s a moderate DIY repair: unplug the washer, photograph the wires before disconnecting them, and order the part using your model number from the sticker inside the door or on the back.

    How to reset a Samsung washer after a dC error

    1. Unplug the washer for 1 minute.
    2. Open the door, check the laundry and close it firmly.
    3. Plug it back in and press Start/Pause.

    What if the door won’t open?

    The door stays locked while there’s water in the drum or the drum is still turning. Wait a few minutes after the cycle ends. If water is left inside, drain it first (see the 5C error guide for how to use the emergency drain hose), then unplug the washer for a minute and try again. Never force the door, because that’s how latches break.

    Samsung washer dC error: frequently asked questions

    What is the difference between dC and dE?

    Both are door errors. dC usually means the door was opened or the latch let go during a cycle; dE usually means the washer couldn’t lock the door at the start. The fixes are the same.

    Why does my Samsung washer say dC when the door is closed?

    Something is keeping the latch from engaging: clothes in the seal, a dirty or bent latch hook, a sagging door, or a failed door lock assembly.

    What does dC3 mean?

    dC3 (or ddC) means the small Add Door on AddWash models isn’t closed and locked. Push it firmly until it clicks.

    Other Samsung washer error codes

    See the full list of Samsung washer error codes, or jump to the most common ones:

    Sources: Samsung US error code list and Samsung support guidance on DE/DC door errors. Always unplug the washer before opening any panel.

  • Samsung Washer UB (UE) Error Code: How to Fix an Unbalanced Load

    Quick answer: UB (also UE, U6 or Ur) means your Samsung washer detected an unbalanced load and stopped the spin to protect itself. Nine times out of ten the fix is simple: open the door, spread the clothes evenly around the drum and restart. If it happens with every load, even small balanced ones, the washer probably isn’t level, the shipping bolts were never removed, or the suspension is worn.

    What does the UB error code mean on a Samsung washer?

    Samsung lists UB, UE, U6, Ur and 1 UB as the “unbalanced load” error. When the drum spins with the weight on one side, it shakes hard, so the washer tries to rebalance. Ur means it’s still rebalancing and trying again; UB or UE means it gave up and stopped the spin. Samsung describes it as a safety stop, not a breakdown.

    Common causes:

    • A single heavy item, like a bath mat, a comforter or a pair of jeans washed alone
    • Bedding that bunches up on one side, or small items rolled up inside a duvet cover
    • An overloaded drum, or a very small load of heavy towels
    • A washer that isn’t level or doesn’t have all four feet on the floor
    • Shipping bolts still installed on a new washer (front load)
    • Worn suspension parts: rods on top loaders, shock absorbers and springs on front loaders

    How to fix the Samsung washer UB error, step by step

    1. Rebalance the load

    1. Press Start/Pause and wait for the door to unlock.
    2. Untangle the clothes and spread them evenly around the drum.
    3. If you’re washing one heavy item, add a couple of towels to balance it.
    4. On front loaders, make sure nothing is caught in the door seal.
    5. Close the door and start a Spin or Rinse + Spin cycle.

    2. Don’t overload, and wash bedding on its own

    Samsung recommends keeping bedding loads small, especially on front loaders, and using the program that matches the fabric (Bedding or Bulky, if your washer has it). A packed drum can’t distribute the weight, and an almost empty drum with one heavy item can’t either.

    3. Level the washer

    1. Unplug the washer.
    2. Put a bubble level on top, first front to back, then side to side.
    3. Turn the front leveling feet: clockwise to raise, counterclockwise to lower.
    4. Check that all four feet touch the floor. Push diagonally on the top corners: the washer shouldn’t rock.
    5. Tighten the lock nuts on the feet so they don’t turn over time.

    Samsung also recommends leaving some space around the washer, about 4 inches (10 cm) from the walls, and not installing it on a stand or a wheeled base. A weak wooden floor can also make it shake more.

    4. Remove the shipping bolts (new front-load washers)

    Front-load washers come with bolts at the back that lock the drum for transport. If the washer was just installed and shakes violently from the first spin, check the back panel: if you see large bolts with plastic spacers, they must be removed with a wrench, and the holes covered with the caps that came with the washer. Keep the bolts in case you move.

    5. Check the suspension

    If the load is balanced, the washer is level and the error keeps coming back, or the tub bangs against the cabinet during spin, the suspension is probably worn.

    • Top load: the tub hangs from four suspension rods. With the washer unplugged and empty, push down on the tub: it should move smoothly and come back without bouncing. A broken or weak rod makes the tub lean to one side.
    • Front load: the drum sits on shock absorbers at the bottom and hangs from springs at the top. Leaking or loose shocks let the drum bounce too much.

    Suspension parts are usually replaced as a set. Search for them with your model number (on the sticker inside the door or on the back), not by photo. If you’re not comfortable opening the washer, this is a good job for a technician.

    How to reset a Samsung washer after a UB error

    1. Unplug the washer for 1 minute.
    2. Rebalance the clothes.
    3. Plug it back in and run Spin or Rinse + Spin.

    Samsung washer UB error: frequently asked questions

    Is UB the same as UE?

    Yes. Both mean unbalanced load. The code depends on the model and the display. Ur means the washer is still trying to rebalance.

    Why does my Samsung washer say UB with a small load?

    Small loads are actually easier to unbalance, especially if they include one heavy item. Add a few more items or towels. If it happens even with balanced loads, check the leveling and the suspension.

    Is it safe to keep using a washer with UB errors?

    An occasional UB is normal. Frequent UB errors with violent shaking can damage the washer, the floor or the wall, so fix the leveling or the suspension before it gets worse.

    Other Samsung washer error codes

    See the full list of Samsung washer error codes, or jump to the most common ones:

    Sources: Samsung US error code list and Samsung support guidance on UE/UB errors. Always unplug the washer before opening any panel.

  • Samsung Washer 5C (5E, SC, nD) Error Code: How to Fix a Washer That Won’t Drain

    Quick answer: a 5C code (also shown as 5E, SC, SE or nD) means your Samsung washer can’t drain the water in time. In most cases the cause is a clogged drain pump filter or a kinked drain hose, and you can fix it in 10 to 15 minutes with a towel and a shallow pan. If the filter and hose are clear and you hear a hum or no sound at all while it tries to drain, the drain pump is the likely culprit.

    Heads-up: after the code appears, Samsung says the buttons may stay locked for about 3 minutes. That’s normal, so wait it out before you start.

    What does the 5C error code mean on a Samsung washer?

    Samsung lists 5C, 5E, SC, SE, nD and 1 5C as the same “no drain” error: the water isn’t draining at the correct speed, or at all. Older displays show 5E or SE, newer ones 5C or SC. The washer stops the cycle to avoid spinning a drum full of water.

    The usual causes, from most to least likely:

    • A clogged drain pump filter (lint, coins, hair clips, socks)
    • A kinked, crushed or clogged drain hose
    • A drain hose installed too deep or too low in the standpipe
    • A frozen drain hose if the washer is in a garage or cold basement
    • A clogged internal hose between the tub and the pump
    • A failed drain pump
    • Rarely: the water level sensor or the control board

    How to fix the Samsung washer 5C error, step by step

    1. Clean the drain pump filter (front load)

    This fixes most 5C errors. Have old towels and a shallow baking dish ready, because water will come out.

    1. Unplug the washer.
    2. Open the small access door at the bottom front of the washer (press it, or use a coin on some models).
    3. Pull out the small emergency drain hose, hold it over the dish and remove its cap. Let the water drain; empty the dish as often as needed.
    4. When no more water comes out, put the cap back on the hose and tuck it in.
    5. Turn the filter counterclockwise and pull it out. A little more water will come out.
    6. Remove everything stuck in it and rinse it under warm water. Wipe the opening with a damp cloth and look inside for coins or small objects.
    7. Screw the filter back in clockwise until it’s tight, close the door and run a Rinse + Spin cycle to test.

    Most top-load Samsung washers don’t have a user-accessible filter, so on those, skip to the hose checks.

    2. Check the drain hose

    • Pull the washer out a little and look for kinks or crushed spots along the whole hose.
    • If it goes into a standpipe, don’t push too much hose inside. Samsung’s guidance is no more than about 6 inches (150 mm), and the hose should rise at least about 24 inches (60 cm) above the floor.
    • If it connects to a sink drain on a new installation, check that the blanking cap on the drain spigot was removed.
    • If the washer is in a cold area, the hose may be frozen. Warm it with a hair dryer or warm (not boiling) water.

    3. Clear a clogged drain hose

    1. Unplug the washer and pull it away from the wall.
    2. Disconnect the drain hose from the washer (you may need pliers for the clamp) and from the drain.
    3. Push the clog out with a straightened coat hanger or a wooden dowel, or flush it with water from the other end.
    4. Reconnect both ends and run Rinse + Spin.

    4. Listen to the drain pump

    Start a Drain/Spin cycle and listen near the bottom of the washer:

    • Normal pump sound but slow draining: there’s still a partial clog in the filter, hose or the hose between the tub and the pump.
    • Grinding or rattling: something is stuck in the pump impeller (a coin, a bra wire).
    • Humming but no water moving: the impeller is jammed.
    • No sound at all: the pump may have failed, or it isn’t getting power.

    5. Test the drain pump

    This is a moderate repair. Unplug the washer, then reach the pump (from the bottom front panel on most front loaders, or through the back or bottom on top loaders). Take a photo of the wires and hoses before disconnecting anything.

    • Check the impeller: it should turn with a little resistance. If it spins loosely, wobbles or is broken, replace the pump.
    • Measure the pump motor with a multimeter on ohms. iFixit gives a typical reading of about 12 to 18 ohms for these pumps. “OL” (open) means the pump is dead.

    Buying the part: drain pumps vary by model. Search with the model number from the sticker inside the door or on the back of the washer, not by photo.

    When the 5C error means something else

    If the filter, hoses and pump are all fine, the washer may “think” it hasn’t drained. That points to the water level (pressure) sensor or its small hose, especially if the washer also has trouble filling. The control board is the last thing to suspect, and that’s a good moment to call a technician or Samsung service.

    How to reset a Samsung washer after a 5C error

    1. Unplug the washer, or switch off its circuit breaker.
    2. Wait 1 minute.
    3. Plug it back in and run a Drain/Spin or Rinse + Spin cycle.

    A reset only clears the message. If the water is still there, the code will come back.

    How to prevent the 5C error

    • Empty pockets before every wash: coins, hair clips and tissues are the main cause of clogged filters.
    • Wash socks, baby clothes and small items in a mesh laundry bag.
    • Clean the drain pump filter regularly, and right away if you notice the washer draining more slowly.
    • Don’t push the washer tight against the wall, so the hose doesn’t get crushed.

    Samsung washer 5C error: frequently asked questions

    Is 5C the same as 5E, SC or nD?

    Yes. They’re all the “no drain” error. The letters changed between older and newer displays.

    Why does my Samsung washer say 5C but the water drains?

    It may be draining too slowly, which is usually a partial clog in the filter or the hose. If it really drains well, the water level sensor may be giving a wrong reading.

    How much does it cost to fix a 5C error?

    Cleaning the filter or the hose is free. If the drain pump has failed, you’ll need a replacement part, and a technician visit adds labor on top. Check the filter first, because that fixes most cases.

    Can I drain my Samsung washer manually?

    Yes. On front loaders, use the small emergency drain hose behind the access door at the bottom front, as described in step 1.

    Other Samsung washer error codes

    See the full list of Samsung washer error codes, or jump to the most common ones:

    Sources: Samsung UK support (5E/5C error) and iFixit’s Samsung Washer SC Code guide. Always unplug the washer before opening any panel.

  • Samsung Washer 4C (4E) Error Code: What It Means & How to Fix It

    Quick answer: a 4C (or 4E) code on a Samsung washer means the machine isn’t getting enough water in the time it expects. In most homes the fix takes less than 15 minutes: open both faucets all the way, straighten the fill hoses and clean the small mesh filters where the hoses connect. If water clearly flows in and the code still comes back, the problem is usually the water inlet valve or the pressure (water level) sensor hose, and this guide shows you how to check both.

    30-second checks before you grab any tools

    • Are both water faucets behind the washer fully open? Half-open is not enough.
    • Is the hot hose on the hot inlet and the cold hose on the cold inlet?
    • Are the fill hoses kinked or crushed after the washer was pushed back against the wall?
    • Are you using “Flood Safe” style hoses? Samsung says not to use them with these washers, because their safety valve can restrict the flow.
    • Did someone turn off the main water or work on the plumbing recently?

    If you changed anything, reset the washer (unplug it for 1 minute) and run a short cycle. If the 4C code is gone, you’re done.

    What does the 4C error code mean on a Samsung washer?

    Samsung lists 4C, 4E, 1 4C and nF as the same “not filling” error. Older displays show 4E, newer ones show 4C, and some models show nF. It works the same on front load and top load washers: during the fill, the control board waits for the water level to reach a target. If the level doesn’t get there in time, the washer stops and shows the code.

    That gives you two families of causes:

    • Water really isn’t getting in: closed or half-open faucets, kinked hoses, clogged inlet filters, low water pressure, a failed inlet valve.
    • Water gets in, but the washer doesn’t “see” it: a clogged, loose or leaking pressure sensor hose, or a faulty water level sensor. This is the case most guides skip.

    How to fix the Samsung washer 4C error, step by step

    Go in this order. The first steps are free and fix most cases; the last ones need a multimeter or a new part.

    1. Clean the inlet hose mesh filters

    Each fill hose has a small mesh screen where it connects to the washer. Sediment, sand and limescale build up there and slowly choke the flow. Samsung recommends cleaning them at least twice a year.

    1. Unplug the washer and turn off both faucets.
    2. Put a towel and a small bucket under the connections (some water will come out).
    3. Unscrew the fill hoses from the back of the washer.
    4. Gently pull out the mesh filters with needle-nose pliers.
    5. Rinse them under running water and brush off any debris with an old toothbrush.
    6. Put them back, reconnect the hoses hand-tight plus a quarter turn, open the faucets and check for leaks.

    2. Check your water pressure

    Samsung’s support pages give a working range of about 0.5 to 8 bar (roughly 7 to 116 psi). Most US homes are well inside that range, but low pressure is common with private wells, during peak hours or when another appliance is filling at the same time. A quick test: fill a bucket from the washer faucet. If the flow looks weak, the washer is not the problem.

    3. Clean the detergent drawer (front load)

    On front-load models, water enters the drum through the detergent drawer. Hardened detergent or softener can partly block it and trigger 4C. Pull the drawer out, rinse it, and clean the cavity it slides into.

    4. Check the drain hose height

    This one surprises people: if the drain hose goes too deep into the standpipe, water can siphon out while the washer is filling, so the level never rises. Samsung says the hose should go 6 to 8 inches into the drain pipe, no more. Pull it up if it’s pushed further in.

    5. Test the water inlet valve

    If water pressure is fine but little or no water enters, the inlet valve (the electric valve where the hoses connect) may have failed. iFixit rates this repair as moderate, about 45 to 60 minutes.

    1. Unplug the washer and remove the top panel (usually two screws at the back).
    2. Check that the wire harness is firmly connected to the valve.
    3. Set a multimeter to ohms and measure each coil of the valve at its terminals. A healthy coil usually reads somewhere between 500 and 1,500 ohms, and the coils of the same valve should read about the same.
    4. A reading of “OL” (open) or far outside that range means the valve is bad and should be replaced.

    Buying the part: Samsung uses different inlet valves depending on the model, so don’t buy one by the photo. Find your model number on the sticker inside the door or on the back, and search for the valve with that exact model number.

    6. Check the pressure sensor hose (when water does come in)

    If you can see and hear water filling the drum but the washer still throws 4C, the machine is probably misreading the water level. The level is measured by a pressure sensor connected to the bottom of the tub through a thin rubber or silicone hose.

    A Samsung owner on Reddit described exactly this case: the washer kept adding small amounts of water every few seconds, or filled the drum halfway, and then stopped with 4C. The sensor itself was fine. The real culprits were the small hose to the sensor, which was clogged with lint and, months later, had worn a hole where it rubbed against the drum. Blowing the hose clear, draining all the water before reconnecting it, and finally replacing the hose fixed the error for good.

    What to check:

    • Drain the washer completely first, using the drain filter at the bottom front. The sensor reads air pressure in the hose, so leftover water while you reconnect it can throw off the reading.
    • Find the sensor (usually near the top of the cabinet) and follow its thin hose down to the tub.
    • Check the hose for lint clogs, cracks or holes, especially where it touches the drum or sits under foam padding.
    • Make sure both ends are tight. A loose connection leaks air and gives false readings.

    If the hose is damaged, replace it with the correct part for your model. If the hose is fine and the problem continues, the sensor or the control board may be at fault.

    When the 4C error means a bad control board

    If the filters are clean, the pressure is good, the valve tests fine and the sensor hose is intact, the control board may not be sending power to the valve. Technicians check this with a live 120-volt test on the valve while the washer runs. That test is dangerous, so unless you’re comfortable working with live electricity, this is the point to call a technician or Samsung service.

    How to reset a Samsung washer after a 4C error

    1. Unplug the washer, or switch off its circuit breaker.
    2. Wait 1 minute.
    3. Plug it back in and start a short cycle, like Rinse + Spin.

    A reset clears the code but doesn’t fix the cause. If 4C comes back on the next fill, go back to the steps above.

    Samsung washer 4C error: frequently asked questions

    How do I clear the 4C error?

    Fix the water supply problem first (faucets, hoses, filters), then unplug the washer for 1 minute and run a new cycle. The code clears on its own once the washer can fill normally.

    Is 4C the same as 4E?

    Yes. 4E is the code on older Samsung displays and 4C on newer ones. Both mean the washer isn’t filling with water correctly. Some models show nF for the same problem.

    Why does my Samsung washer show 4C when water is coming in?

    The washer measures the water level with a pressure sensor. If the sensor hose is clogged, loose or has a hole, the washer thinks the drum is still empty and stops with 4C. A drain hose pushed too deep into the standpipe can also siphon water out as fast as it comes in.

    Can I still use my washer with a 4C error?

    Not reliably. The washer will keep stopping during the fill. Most causes are cheap to fix, so it’s worth working through the steps before calling for service.

    Other Samsung washer error codes

    See the full list of Samsung washer error codes, or jump to the most common ones:

    Sources: Samsung US and Samsung UK support pages for the 4C/4E code, and iFixit’s 4E/4C troubleshooting guide. Always follow your washer’s manual and unplug it before opening any panel.