Quick answer: a 4C (or 4E) code on a Samsung washer means the machine isn’t getting enough water in the time it expects. In most homes the fix takes less than 15 minutes: open both faucets all the way, straighten the fill hoses and clean the small mesh filters where the hoses connect. If water clearly flows in and the code still comes back, the problem is usually the water inlet valve or the pressure (water level) sensor hose, and this guide shows you how to check both.
30-second checks before you grab any tools
- Are both water faucets behind the washer fully open? Half-open is not enough.
- Is the hot hose on the hot inlet and the cold hose on the cold inlet?
- Are the fill hoses kinked or crushed after the washer was pushed back against the wall?
- Are you using “Flood Safe” style hoses? Samsung says not to use them with these washers, because their safety valve can restrict the flow.
- Did someone turn off the main water or work on the plumbing recently?
If you changed anything, reset the washer (unplug it for 1 minute) and run a short cycle. If the 4C code is gone, you’re done.
What does the 4C error code mean on a Samsung washer?
Samsung lists 4C, 4E, 1 4C and nF as the same “not filling” error. Older displays show 4E, newer ones show 4C, and some models show nF. It works the same on front load and top load washers: during the fill, the control board waits for the water level to reach a target. If the level doesn’t get there in time, the washer stops and shows the code.
That gives you two families of causes:
- Water really isn’t getting in: closed or half-open faucets, kinked hoses, clogged inlet filters, low water pressure, a failed inlet valve.
- Water gets in, but the washer doesn’t “see” it: a clogged, loose or leaking pressure sensor hose, or a faulty water level sensor. This is the case most guides skip.
How to fix the Samsung washer 4C error, step by step
Go in this order. The first steps are free and fix most cases; the last ones need a multimeter or a new part.
1. Clean the inlet hose mesh filters
Each fill hose has a small mesh screen where it connects to the washer. Sediment, sand and limescale build up there and slowly choke the flow. Samsung recommends cleaning them at least twice a year.
- Unplug the washer and turn off both faucets.
- Put a towel and a small bucket under the connections (some water will come out).
- Unscrew the fill hoses from the back of the washer.
- Gently pull out the mesh filters with needle-nose pliers.
- Rinse them under running water and brush off any debris with an old toothbrush.
- Put them back, reconnect the hoses hand-tight plus a quarter turn, open the faucets and check for leaks.
2. Check your water pressure
Samsung’s support pages give a working range of about 0.5 to 8 bar (roughly 7 to 116 psi). Most US homes are well inside that range, but low pressure is common with private wells, during peak hours or when another appliance is filling at the same time. A quick test: fill a bucket from the washer faucet. If the flow looks weak, the washer is not the problem.
3. Clean the detergent drawer (front load)
On front-load models, water enters the drum through the detergent drawer. Hardened detergent or softener can partly block it and trigger 4C. Pull the drawer out, rinse it, and clean the cavity it slides into.
4. Check the drain hose height
This one surprises people: if the drain hose goes too deep into the standpipe, water can siphon out while the washer is filling, so the level never rises. Samsung says the hose should go 6 to 8 inches into the drain pipe, no more. Pull it up if it’s pushed further in.
5. Test the water inlet valve
If water pressure is fine but little or no water enters, the inlet valve (the electric valve where the hoses connect) may have failed. iFixit rates this repair as moderate, about 45 to 60 minutes.
- Unplug the washer and remove the top panel (usually two screws at the back).
- Check that the wire harness is firmly connected to the valve.
- Set a multimeter to ohms and measure each coil of the valve at its terminals. A healthy coil usually reads somewhere between 500 and 1,500 ohms, and the coils of the same valve should read about the same.
- A reading of “OL” (open) or far outside that range means the valve is bad and should be replaced.
Buying the part: Samsung uses different inlet valves depending on the model, so don’t buy one by the photo. Find your model number on the sticker inside the door or on the back, and search for the valve with that exact model number.
6. Check the pressure sensor hose (when water does come in)
If you can see and hear water filling the drum but the washer still throws 4C, the machine is probably misreading the water level. The level is measured by a pressure sensor connected to the bottom of the tub through a thin rubber or silicone hose.
A Samsung owner on Reddit described exactly this case: the washer kept adding small amounts of water every few seconds, or filled the drum halfway, and then stopped with 4C. The sensor itself was fine. The real culprits were the small hose to the sensor, which was clogged with lint and, months later, had worn a hole where it rubbed against the drum. Blowing the hose clear, draining all the water before reconnecting it, and finally replacing the hose fixed the error for good.
What to check:
- Drain the washer completely first, using the drain filter at the bottom front. The sensor reads air pressure in the hose, so leftover water while you reconnect it can throw off the reading.
- Find the sensor (usually near the top of the cabinet) and follow its thin hose down to the tub.
- Check the hose for lint clogs, cracks or holes, especially where it touches the drum or sits under foam padding.
- Make sure both ends are tight. A loose connection leaks air and gives false readings.
If the hose is damaged, replace it with the correct part for your model. If the hose is fine and the problem continues, the sensor or the control board may be at fault.
When the 4C error means a bad control board
If the filters are clean, the pressure is good, the valve tests fine and the sensor hose is intact, the control board may not be sending power to the valve. Technicians check this with a live 120-volt test on the valve while the washer runs. That test is dangerous, so unless you’re comfortable working with live electricity, this is the point to call a technician or Samsung service.
How to reset a Samsung washer after a 4C error
- Unplug the washer, or switch off its circuit breaker.
- Wait 1 minute.
- Plug it back in and start a short cycle, like Rinse + Spin.
A reset clears the code but doesn’t fix the cause. If 4C comes back on the next fill, go back to the steps above.
Samsung washer 4C error: frequently asked questions
How do I clear the 4C error?
Fix the water supply problem first (faucets, hoses, filters), then unplug the washer for 1 minute and run a new cycle. The code clears on its own once the washer can fill normally.
Is 4C the same as 4E?
Yes. 4E is the code on older Samsung displays and 4C on newer ones. Both mean the washer isn’t filling with water correctly. Some models show nF for the same problem.
Why does my Samsung washer show 4C when water is coming in?
The washer measures the water level with a pressure sensor. If the sensor hose is clogged, loose or has a hole, the washer thinks the drum is still empty and stops with 4C. A drain hose pushed too deep into the standpipe can also siphon water out as fast as it comes in.
Can I still use my washer with a 4C error?
Not reliably. The washer will keep stopping during the fill. Most causes are cheap to fix, so it’s worth working through the steps before calling for service.
Other Samsung washer error codes
See the full list of Samsung washer error codes, or jump to the most common ones:
- 5C / SC / SE / nD: the washer isn’t draining.
- UB / UE / U6 / Ur: unbalanced load.
- dC / dE / LO: door not closed and locked.
Sources: Samsung US and Samsung UK support pages for the 4C/4E code, and iFixit’s 4E/4C troubleshooting guide. Always follow your washer’s manual and unplug it before opening any panel.